Raccoons

Raccoons are interesting, curious, intelligent and often troublesome mammals. All raccoons are marked with a trademark black 'mask' around the eyes, and a heavily furred, ringed tail. Fur colour ranges from a salt-and-pepper grey and black, to a dirty yellowish brown. Raccoons may weigh between 4.5 and 13.5 kg (10 and 30 lb.), or more, and can grow between 61 and 91 cm (24 and 36 in.). They are found throughout most regions of North America and prefer wooded areas, however, they are quite adaptable to different environments as long as there is food, water and shelter available. Raccoons are omnivorous, eating both plant and animal foods. They have very versatile front paws which make them excellent climbers, and allow them to handle and manipulate objects in a way unlike most other animals. Consequently, they are capable of various types of damage.

Raccoons are most active at night and are very territorial. They do not hibernate. but do become inactive during severe winter weather.

Raccoons are not normally considered to be dangerous, however. they are extremely powerful and will attack or defend themselves if provoked. Some have become accustomed to the presence of humans. such as in parks and around cottages, and may be quite approachable, however, it is important to remember that they are wild and not domestic animals. Recently, reported rabies in raccoons has increased dramatically, and they are now the major wildlife host of the disease. Family pets which encounter rabid raccoons may become infected and consequently become dangerous to family members. Make sure your pet has been vaccinated against rabies. for the sake of your pet and your family.

The different types of damage which raccoons are capable of are almost too numerous to mention. In urban environments, raccoons are more than capable of finding homes in uncapped chimneys. tearing off shingles or fascia in order to gain entrance to an attic or wall void, tearing up lawns in search for grubs and earthworms, destroying gardens, and upsetting and eating the contents of garbage cans. In attics and wall voids, the build-up of raccoon feces and urine can constitute health hazards to the homeowner. In more rural environments, raccoons can be highly destructive in and around poultry barns.

Raccoons can live up to 12 years, but this is rare in the wild. They will normally live for 5 or 6 years. Mating usually occurs in February, but can continue into June. and the year's first litters are born in April and May. A female will only have one litter per year and it will consist of 2 to 5 young on average. Litters may be as small as 1 and as large as 12, however, this is rare.

Raccoons do not have definite denning areas, however, they may be found in hollow trees, ground burrows, brush piles, barns, abandoned buildings and in rock crevices. As urban sprawl replaces rural areas, raccoons have been forced to find new living quarters in attics, fireplaces, garages and wall voids.
How can I prevent raccoons from establishing themselves on my property?

Exclusion is the best means of raccoon prevention. Because raccoons are such good climbers it is important to keep tree limbs away from rooftops. Chimneys should be capped, holes in walls and roofs should be repaired, and doors into garages and sheds should be kept closed during the evenings.

Sanitation is very important. Keeping your property free from lumber, garbage and other debris will discourage their presence. Garbage cans should be made of heavy plastic or metal, equipped with tight-fitting lids with fasteners, and should be secured against capsizing. Just covering a garbage can with a lid would pose no challenge to any raccoon.

It is important to remember this point: never exclude a raccoon from an area of your home if the animal has young. Desperate mother raccoons are capable of unimaginable damage in attempting to get back to her litter. Also, should the young die, the structure will be faced with a variety of new problems, namely stench and flies. Attempt exclusion if, and only if, the young can be reached and removed.

Because of a raccoon's strength and unpredictability, the threat of rabies and the transmission of other diseases, it is not recommended that the homeowner attempt removal.

If you have other questions you need help with or you have a raccoon family living with you call
Apple Pest Management Today!

Squirrels

The best form of squirrel control is prevention! Proper sanitation and property maintenance will prevent most problems. Most urban squirrels owe their existence to humans. We supply both food, and shelter without thinking. A house is just another funny looking tree to the squirrel. Why should the squirrel spend days cutting and hauling twigs up a tree to build a nest, when there is a perfectly good attic to sleep in. Its warm, out of the weather, and they don't have to worry about predators coming in. Just add a few leaves, a bit of fluff, and call it home.

Now what's for dinner? A dish of pet food left unattended, an open garbage can, or a full bird feeder is a free meal to a hungry squirrel. Their common sense says "this sure beats foraging" and it's a lot easier. Wow...these humans are really great!

If you read this far, then you probably have some of these problems already. So, remove the food supply. If it is a bird feeder, move it twenty or more feet from the house. Close or cover garbage cans, and if possible make them inaccessible. If you have a barbecue near the house, keep it clean and covered. Squirrels have been know to eat the drippings and sometimes build a nest if they can get inside. It doesn't take very long, sometimes just hours.

Maybe the squirrels are digging in your garden, or flower pots. While you can't stop a squirrel from digging, you can discourage it. Use hardware cloth, a heavy metal screening with a half inch square grid, to place in the flower pot. Cut it to fit around the stem of the plant, and extend it to the edges of the pot. Place it just below the soil. Put some small rocks near the edge to hold it in place. This same approach can be used in a small garden.

If the squirrels are eating your fruit as it ripens, about the only way to stop them is to cage the entire plant. Most times this is not practical, and allowing them to have a little may be a small price to pay. I know they can be wasteful, try to accept it as food tasting.

Other devices, such as high frequency sound emitters and animal scents may be effective for a short period of time. Once the squirrel gets use to them, and they will. They become ineffective, and you're out a lot of money.

The use of "Squirrel Away" or "Hot Pepper Spray" are also ineffective as deterrents. They can actually do harm to both squirrels, and other animals, especially when these products get into their eyes. Then how do you deal with a blind squirrel?

The use of "moth balls" as a deterrent does work. But again, only temporarily. A determined squirrel will get used to the smell, or simply push the "smelly stuff" out of its way. So if you do try this method, wrap them in a piece of metal screening to form a bag. Then tie the bag to a solid object, make it as difficult as possible for the squirrel to move. You will have to replace the contents every few days for it to be truly effective.

Another problem area can be exposed wires or rubber hose's. Most common are those on gas grills, and stored motor vehicles. But, low voltage lighting can be a tempting target for squirrels. What the most squirrels are trying to do, is clean and sharpen their teeth. They do this by biting through some material, (normally wood) then they pull their head back so the fibers slide between the teeth. I guess you could call it the squirrel version of dental floss. Most squirrels stick with small tree branches, but some have found the plastic coated wire or rubber hose does a much better job. The only way to stop this problem is to trap and relocate the offending squirrel. Once the squirrel is removed, the problem should end.

Once a squirrel has chewed its way into an attic or crawl space, again the only practical way to remove it is by trapping. Of course repairs should be made immediately to close the entrance hole. It is also important to cut off the access route to the attic or crawl space. This may require trimming tree branches that overhang the roof. Remove firewood that may be stacked against the building. Fill cracks in foundation walls. Even a one inch hole or crack can make a suitable entrance hole for a determined squirrel. When patching wood, use metal plates or flashing where ever possible. On foundations walls use concrete. Avoid plastic or PVC vents when ever possible.

If you have find yourself with a squirrel problem,Apple Pest Management Today!

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